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INTERVIEW: Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque 2000
By Maren L. Hickton

Sirio Maccioni The story is told that when Sirio Maccioni first opened Le Cirque at 58 East 65th Street, at New York's former Mayflower Hotel, he sent out a modest little card announcing his new restaurant. So many friends decided to drop in to make sure that he wouldn't be alone on this fateful day of March 24, 1974, that the restaurant was filled to the rafters. With his wife, Egidiana, at his side, Le Cirque was born and quickly became New York's most favored restaurant.

Sirio began a new era when he and his wife and three sons, Mario, Marco and Mauro, who are also immersed in the business, moved the restaurant to a larger space -- the historic Villard mansions (built in 1882), an extension of the New York Palace Hotel. According to Adam Tihany, Sirio's Architect, "Before we knew about the move to the Palace, Sirio and I went out with our wives to 'Cirque du Soleil', when it was just a tent show down in the Battery. We were speechless. Sirio's jaw literally dropped. 'This is what circus is all about in my mind. This is what I want,' Sirio said," recalls Tihany. At Sirio's direction, Tihany initiated the high-wire act of spectacular remodeling, working within the confines of laws protecting the landmark neo-Italian Renaissance Villard Houses, while Sirio embarked upon a circus-catch press tour during the delays, bringing what was to come to the New York, traveling throughout Europe. Le Cirque 2000 opened its doors in May of 1997 "which was, without a doubt" as one critic wrote, "the social and gustatory high point of the year in New York."

Le Cirque 2000 Le Cirque 2000 is lushly decorated revealing magnificent carved wood and gilded panels with an ornately decorated vaulted ceiling framed by bronze dore moldings. Intricate mosaics, gilded capitals and stained glass windows add to the opulence. Illuminated pre-Raphaelite romantic murals adorn the walls, and steel and neon hoops float above warm, low-slung armchairs. The main dining room continues the lavish romantic circus theme with plush banquettes and deep-purple velvet high-back chairs with colorful clown button spines. A huge carpet with overlapping circles mimics the dancing spotlights of a circus ring. A pair of one-armed chairs are at each table so that couples can sit closer and hold hands. There are hidden doorways and inlaid marble, as well as memorabilia from Le Cirque's former location and other whimsies added by Tihany, who, in addition to being Sirio's trusted friend and architect, is also a well-respected restaurateur. Sirio even pitched a regal circus tent in a vibrant spectrum of colors and luxurious textures. This big top, metaphorically, is much like the delightful dimensions of the soft-spoken and unassuming ringmaster who provides so much inviting comfort.

Le Cirque The secret of Le Cirque's success lies in Maccioni's unmatched panache and particular attention to detail. While it is clear that Sirio's myriad-mind is attuned to the ongoing tactical aspects of successfully operating of his restaurant, he is simultaneously involved in attending to the needs and whims of his diners, making sure not to miss a step. As a result, this visionary, who conceived the greatest restaurant show on earth, has a greater ability to constantly fine-tune the menu as the tastes of his diners continue to expand. Le Cirque opened with haute French cuisine in 1974, evolved to include Italian and nouveau American, and now, under the direction and influence of Cambodian-born Executive Chef Sottha Khunn, who has been with Le Cirque for over ten years, incorporates more flavorful Asian influences. Sirio's sole focus is to continue to thrill all guests with the total dining experience at Le Cirque 2000, from its exceptional level of service, extensive menu of signature classics, to the magnificent desserts created by acclaimed Executive Pastry Chef Jacques Torres -- arguably one of the greatest pastry chefs in the world.

Sirio Maccioni has a wall of awards and accolades from every conceivable critic and reviewer spanning his 26 years of operation in New York City. His magnetic charm and sophistication enables him to deal with customers ranging from business guests and delighted tourists, to a who's who list of socialites encompassing a world-class following of loyal patrons. This former busboy, who started his career in 1948 and worked his way up in a variety of positions in Italy, France and Germany before arriving in New York and working as Maitre d' at the immensely popular Colony restaurant, now owns and operates four successful independent restaurants. In addition to Le Cirque 2000, the Maccioni family operates Osteria Del Circo (Circus Tavern) at 120 West 55th Street and a Le Cirque and Osteria Del Circo at the $1.6 billion dollar Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas.

RR: This beautiful restaurant. The incredible success. All the accolades. How did it happen and what was the source of your inspiration?

SM: I would not call it inspiration. I would call it desperation. Great things did happen for me, but very little of it was actually planned. I grew up on my Grandfather's farm in Tuscany. At a very early age, I knew a lot about food -- an appreciation for good food was just a natural part of my life. My father worked as concierge in a local hotel, so I suppose that was my inspiration. When I graduated from High School, the money wasn't there in terms of attending college. And while I loved the farm, I didn't want to work the farm, so I enrolled in a restaurant and hotel school in my hometown of Montecatini Terme.

RR: While your working career has been totally devoted to the hospitality industry, you certainly did some serious moving and traveling during the early years...

SM: I am naturally adventurous and enjoyed experiences in the various countries, but my real goal was to learn different languages. I became a student of language and found it necessary to live and work in a specific country in order to master the language. By moving early and often, I was able to learn French, German, English and some Spanish.

RR: All those years in Italy, France and Germany, and somehow you settled in the United States. Was this part of the master plan?

SM: I had no plans to settle here. Like everything else in my life, it just happened. It was the mid 1950s and I was working on a cruise line, the SS Homeric (Home Lines Cruises) when we docked in New York. During our stay, I discovered the Hunter College, which had courses for people attempting to learn English. I enrolled and ended up staying in the Country. That's when I really began my restaurant career. I worked for a lot of years in the New York restaurant industry, ten years at the Colony (restaurant), before opening my own place in 1974. So, I certainly paid my dues while working and learning from others.

RR: And what did you learn?

SM: That if you are going to do something, do it the right way. You have to plan to be successful because it takes the same effort to do things wrong and that is a waste of time. I also learned to be a restaurateur and not an entrepreneur. You can't run a successful restaurant unless you plan to be there, and that's why I am at Le Cirque every day of the week.

RR: You do have a Le Cirque restaurant in Las Vegas now...

SM: And my son is there every day of the week.

RR: How do you compare these two restaurants?

SM: They are very much the same. We run a totally independent restaurant in Las Vegas and our Chef is from Le Cirque in New York. Unlike most of the big-name restaurants that open in Vegas, we really don't cater to the casino crowd. We draw so much business from the local community. There are now some one and one-half million people living there and many of them have discovered our restaurant and couldn't care less about gambling. We are the only major restaurant that requires a tie and jacket and our customers appreciate this.

RR: Based on your success, are we soon to see a chain called Le Cirque with locations all over the world?

SM: Never! We will always remain completely independent, but new locations are always possible. We looked very carefully at a location in Paris, but this is not about to happen.

RR: So if not Paris, where might we find the next Le Cirque?

SM: We might discover the next Le Cirque in London. We'll see.

RR: Your sons are doing an exemplary job with Osteria Del Circo in New York and your restaurants at Bellagio. Was it a given that your sons, Mario, Marco, and Mauro were destined for the restaurant business?

SM: Not in my mind. I actually discouraged them as much as I could. I told them to do the important things like get a regular job so they have time to raise a family and enjoy themselves. I also encouraged them to travel around and see the world. And I insisted that they master another language. They didn't listen to me regarding the restaurant business. But they are dedicated and work very hard, so it has been a good thing.

RR: The language issue is really important to you.

SM: Americans are so amazing. We speak only one language and we insist that the rest of the world should also speak English. We should make it possible for all young people to travel and learn something about the rest of the world, and language is a central part of this experience. At Le Cirque, we see visitors from all over the world and it's important to me and my business that I can communicate with all of them.

RR: You do such a big business and you get such great press. Can success spoil you?

SM: First, let me assure you that we do not always get great press. When we moved to our new location at 455 Madison Avenue, the Zagat people insisted that the food at the new Le Cirque was not equal to that of our original location on East 65th Street. They bashed us and, at the same time, they praised us. I have no respect for this publication and never will. In my mind, they are just out to sell more books and it's ridiculous to have thousands of reviewers who comment on your restaurant and are rewarded with a free copy of the guide. I really think that most New Yorker's use it for the addresses and phone numbers rather than the editorial information on the restaurants. The best guide to restaurants in the entire world is the Michelin Guide. When they take away a star, the restaurant receives a letter of explanation as to their system for rating restaurants. It is complete and very professional.

RR: How about the second part of my question. Are you spoiled in any way?

SM: I don't have time to get spoiled. And let me tell you another part of my philosophy of running a restaurant. I want to see Le Cirque continually improve. I laugh when I hear a restaurant is good because it is so consistent. I don't want consistent in that sense. I continually want our presentation to be different and I want it to be better. In this business you can lose if all you are is consistent. I like the idea of new people, new ideas, and new energy. Even great chefs get tired of doing the same things over and over again, so it's good business to make a change once in a while. This doesn't mean that you get rid of people, but it might mean that you move them to a new position, or possibly a new location.

RR: Most restaurants have problems such as labor, marketing and filling tables, for example, on Monday and Tuesday evenings. I'm sure you have problems, but in the scheme of things, do you really have problems?

SM: Of course we have problems. There are always issues and that is why the owner always has to be present. We have 200 employees in this restaurant and some 700 in all three locations. We are blessed because people want to work here, and believe me, we get great people. But we are in business to keep our customers happy and sometimes some employees lose sight of this. Service is so critically important that we must keep everyone totally dedicated to Le Cirque and not to their own personal agendas. You mention marketing and I don't consider this a problem. I don't really believe in advertising, because when you think about it, restaurants are only forced to advertise because there are too many restaurants.. Satisfied customers will do your advertising for you.

RR: Is the year 2000 a good time to be in the restaurant business?

SM: Let me speak for New York, and I don't mean to get political. But I think the entire New York restaurant community owes our Mayor a debt of gratitude. I will admit that Mayor Giuliani is a good customer and a friend, but he made New York a much safer city and this, by itself, has been very good for all of us. Yes, it is a wonderful time to be in the restaurant business, but nothing is forever. I sincerely worry about him leaving office and what is going to happen if he is no longer running this great city.

RR: It's getting late, so maybe I better let you get back to work. Are you expecting a big night?

SM: It's a typical Thursday night with over 300 dinner reservations. You asked me about problems and accommodating all of our customers is one of them. It becomes an incredible balancing act on a daily basis. I don't want people to be intimidated about coming here. We never even take a credit card to hold a reservation and there are times when a customer fails to show. But what can you do? It's certainly not something that I worry about. Some people think Le Cirque is expensive. Do you know that there are 40 more restaurants right here in New York that are more expensive than we are. We want every customer to enjoy dining here and, of course, we want them to come back. Most of them do, so we know we are doing something right.

RR: I am sitting here talking with one of the most successful restaurateurs of the century whose incredible career spans 50 years, and you are referring to problems about balancing reservations with tables? I would think that most restaurants wished they had your problems.

SM: We have been lucky, but we have also worked very hard!


Dossier
Name: Sirio Maccioni, Owner Born: Montecatini Terme, Italy - April 5, 1932 Restaurant: Le Cirque 2000
Dining Room Seating Capacity: 150 Courtyard Seating Capacity: 100 Banquet Facilities: Cigar Room, Courtyard, The Library, L'Orangerie
Other Restaurants: Osteria Del Circo (New York, NY and Las Vegas, NV) and Le Cirque (Las Vegas, NV)
Site Link: http://www.lecirque.com
Established: March 24, 1974 (relocated to present location in May 1997)
Address: 455 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10022
Contact Information: Telephone - (212) 303-7788 Fax - (212) 303-7712
Hours: Mon. - Sat., 11:45 a.m. to 2:45 p.m. and 5:45 to 11:00 p.m. Sun., 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Credit Cards: All Major
Awards: (More like, what award hasn't this restaurant won!)
Unique Skills: Sirio Maccioni speaks five languages - Italian, English, French, German and Spanish
Other Accomplishments: Sirio Maccioni is especially proud of "bringing Virgin Olive Oil and White Truffles to the United States."

*****
Maren L. Hickton is the Principal of Maren Incorporated, a Full-Service Hospitality Consulting and Marketing Firm based in Pittsburgh, PA. Maren can be reached by e-mail at mareninc@aol.com




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