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INTERVIEW: Sirio Maccioni of Le Cirque 2000 By Maren L. Hickton
The story is told that
when Sirio Maccioni first opened Le Cirque at 58 East 65th Street,
at New York's former Mayflower Hotel, he sent out a modest little
card announcing his new restaurant. So many friends decided to drop
in to make sure that he wouldn't be alone on this fateful day of
March 24, 1974, that the restaurant was filled to the rafters. With
his wife, Egidiana, at his side, Le Cirque was born and quickly
became New York's most favored restaurant.
Sirio began a new era
when he and his wife and three sons, Mario, Marco and Mauro, who
are also immersed in the business, moved the restaurant to a larger
space -- the historic Villard mansions (built in 1882), an extension
of the New York Palace Hotel. According to Adam Tihany, Sirio's
Architect, "Before we knew about the move to the Palace, Sirio and
I went out with our wives to 'Cirque du Soleil', when it was just
a tent show down in the Battery. We were speechless. Sirio's jaw
literally dropped. 'This is what circus is all about in my mind.
This is what I want,' Sirio said," recalls Tihany. At Sirio's direction,
Tihany initiated the high-wire act of spectacular remodeling, working
within the confines of laws protecting the landmark neo-Italian
Renaissance Villard Houses, while Sirio embarked upon a circus-catch
press tour during the delays, bringing what was to come to the New
York, traveling throughout Europe. Le Cirque 2000 opened its doors
in May of 1997 "which was, without a doubt" as one critic wrote,
"the social and gustatory high point of the year in New York."
Le Cirque 2000 is lushly
decorated revealing magnificent carved wood and gilded panels with
an ornately decorated vaulted ceiling framed by bronze dore moldings.
Intricate mosaics, gilded capitals and stained glass windows add
to the opulence. Illuminated pre-Raphaelite romantic murals adorn
the walls, and steel and neon hoops float above warm, low-slung
armchairs. The main dining room continues the lavish romantic circus
theme with plush banquettes and deep-purple velvet high-back chairs
with colorful clown button spines. A huge carpet with overlapping
circles mimics the dancing spotlights of a circus ring. A pair of
one-armed chairs are at each table so that couples can sit closer
and hold hands. There are hidden doorways and inlaid marble, as
well as memorabilia from Le Cirque's former location and other whimsies
added by Tihany, who, in addition to being Sirio's trusted friend
and architect, is also a well-respected restaurateur. Sirio even
pitched a regal circus tent in a vibrant spectrum of colors and
luxurious textures. This big top, metaphorically, is much like the
delightful dimensions of the soft-spoken and unassuming ringmaster
who provides so much inviting comfort.
The secret of Le Cirque's
success lies in Maccioni's unmatched panache and particular attention
to detail. While it is clear that Sirio's myriad-mind is attuned
to the ongoing tactical aspects of successfully operating of his
restaurant, he is simultaneously involved in attending to the needs
and whims of his diners, making sure not to miss a step. As a result,
this visionary, who conceived the greatest restaurant show on earth,
has a greater ability to constantly fine-tune the menu as the tastes
of his diners continue to expand. Le Cirque opened with haute French
cuisine in 1974, evolved to include Italian and nouveau American,
and now, under the direction and influence of Cambodian-born Executive
Chef Sottha Khunn, who has been with Le Cirque for over ten years,
incorporates more flavorful Asian influences. Sirio's sole focus
is to continue to thrill all guests with the total dining experience
at Le Cirque 2000, from its exceptional level of service, extensive
menu of signature classics, to the magnificent desserts created
by acclaimed Executive Pastry Chef Jacques Torres -- arguably one
of the greatest pastry chefs in the world.
Sirio Maccioni has a
wall of awards and accolades from every conceivable critic and reviewer
spanning his 26 years of operation in New York City. His magnetic
charm and sophistication enables him to deal with customers ranging
from business guests and delighted tourists, to a who's who list
of socialites encompassing a world-class following of loyal patrons.
This former busboy, who started his career in 1948 and worked his
way up in a variety of positions in Italy, France and Germany before
arriving in New York and working as Maitre d' at the immensely popular
Colony restaurant, now owns and operates four successful independent
restaurants. In addition to Le Cirque 2000, the Maccioni family
operates Osteria Del Circo (Circus Tavern) at 120 West 55th Street
and a Le Cirque and Osteria Del Circo at the $1.6 billion dollar
Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas.
RR: This beautiful
restaurant. The incredible success. All the accolades. How did it
happen and what was the source of your inspiration?
SM: I would not
call it inspiration. I would call it desperation. Great things did
happen for me, but very little of it was actually planned. I grew
up on my Grandfather's farm in Tuscany. At a very early age, I knew
a lot about food -- an appreciation for good food was just a natural
part of my life. My father worked as concierge in a local hotel,
so I suppose that was my inspiration. When I graduated from High
School, the money wasn't there in terms of attending college. And
while I loved the farm, I didn't want to work the farm, so I enrolled
in a restaurant and hotel school in my hometown of Montecatini Terme.
RR: While your
working career has been totally devoted to the hospitality industry,
you certainly did some serious moving and traveling during the early
years...
SM: I am naturally
adventurous and enjoyed experiences in the various countries, but
my real goal was to learn different languages. I became a student
of language and found it necessary to live and work in a specific
country in order to master the language. By moving early and often,
I was able to learn French, German, English and some Spanish.
RR: All those
years in Italy, France and Germany, and somehow you settled in the
United States. Was this part of the master plan?
SM: I had no plans
to settle here. Like everything else in my life, it just happened.
It was the mid 1950s and I was working on a cruise line, the SS
Homeric (Home Lines Cruises) when we docked in New York. During
our stay, I discovered the Hunter College, which had courses for
people attempting to learn English. I enrolled and ended up staying
in the Country. That's when I really began my restaurant career.
I worked for a lot of years in the New York restaurant industry,
ten years at the Colony (restaurant), before opening my own place
in 1974. So, I certainly paid my dues while working and learning
from others.
RR: And what did
you learn?
SM: That if you
are going to do something, do it the right way. You have to plan
to be successful because it takes the same effort to do things wrong
and that is a waste of time. I also learned to be a restaurateur
and not an entrepreneur. You can't run a successful restaurant unless
you plan to be there, and that's why I am at Le Cirque every day
of the week.
RR: You do have
a Le Cirque restaurant in Las Vegas now...
SM: And my son
is there every day of the week.
RR: How do you
compare these two restaurants?
SM: They are very
much the same. We run a totally independent restaurant in Las Vegas
and our Chef is from Le Cirque in New York. Unlike most of the big-name
restaurants that open in Vegas, we really don't cater to the casino
crowd. We draw so much business from the local community. There
are now some one and one-half million people living there and many
of them have discovered our restaurant and couldn't care less about
gambling. We are the only major restaurant that requires a tie and
jacket and our customers appreciate this.
RR: Based on your
success, are we soon to see a chain called Le Cirque with locations
all over the world?
SM: Never! We
will always remain completely independent, but new locations are
always possible. We looked very carefully at a location in Paris,
but this is not about to happen.
RR: So if not
Paris, where might we find the next Le Cirque?
SM: We might discover
the next Le Cirque in London. We'll see.
RR: Your sons
are doing an exemplary job with Osteria Del Circo in New York and
your restaurants at Bellagio. Was it a given that your sons, Mario,
Marco, and Mauro were destined for the restaurant business?
SM: Not in my
mind. I actually discouraged them as much as I could. I told them
to do the important things like get a regular job so they have time
to raise a family and enjoy themselves. I also encouraged them to
travel around and see the world. And I insisted that they master
another language. They didn't listen to me regarding the restaurant
business. But they are dedicated and work very hard, so it has been
a good thing.
RR: The language
issue is really important to you.
SM: Americans
are so amazing. We speak only one language and we insist that the
rest of the world should also speak English. We should make it possible
for all young people to travel and learn something about the rest
of the world, and language is a central part of this experience.
At Le Cirque, we see visitors from all over the world and it's important
to me and my business that I can communicate with all of them.
RR: You do such
a big business and you get such great press. Can success spoil you?
SM: First, let
me assure you that we do not always get great press. When we moved
to our new location at 455 Madison Avenue, the Zagat people insisted
that the food at the new Le Cirque was not equal to that of our
original location on East 65th Street. They bashed us and, at the
same time, they praised us. I have no respect for this publication
and never will. In my mind, they are just out to sell more books
and it's ridiculous to have thousands of reviewers who comment on
your restaurant and are rewarded with a free copy of the guide.
I really think that most New Yorker's use it for the addresses and
phone numbers rather than the editorial information on the restaurants.
The best guide to restaurants in the entire world is the Michelin
Guide. When they take away a star, the restaurant receives a letter
of explanation as to their system for rating restaurants. It is
complete and very professional.
RR: How about
the second part of my question. Are you spoiled in any way?
SM: I don't have
time to get spoiled. And let me tell you another part of my philosophy
of running a restaurant. I want to see Le Cirque continually improve.
I laugh when I hear a restaurant is good because it is so consistent.
I don't want consistent in that sense. I continually want our presentation
to be different and I want it to be better. In this business you
can lose if all you are is consistent. I like the idea of new people,
new ideas, and new energy. Even great chefs get tired of doing the
same things over and over again, so it's good business to make a
change once in a while. This doesn't mean that you get rid of people,
but it might mean that you move them to a new position, or possibly
a new location.
RR: Most restaurants
have problems such as labor, marketing and filling tables, for example,
on Monday and Tuesday evenings. I'm sure you have problems, but
in the scheme of things, do you really have problems?
SM: Of course
we have problems. There are always issues and that is why the owner
always has to be present. We have 200 employees in this restaurant
and some 700 in all three locations. We are blessed because people
want to work here, and believe me, we get great people. But we are
in business to keep our customers happy and sometimes some employees
lose sight of this. Service is so critically important that we must
keep everyone totally dedicated to Le Cirque and not to their own
personal agendas. You mention marketing and I don't consider this
a problem. I don't really believe in advertising, because when you
think about it, restaurants are only forced to advertise because
there are too many restaurants.. Satisfied customers will do your
advertising for you.
RR: Is the year
2000 a good time to be in the restaurant business?
SM: Let me speak
for New York, and I don't mean to get political. But I think the
entire New York restaurant community owes our Mayor a debt of gratitude.
I will admit that Mayor Giuliani is a good customer and a friend,
but he made New York a much safer city and this, by itself, has
been very good for all of us. Yes, it is a wonderful time to be
in the restaurant business, but nothing is forever. I sincerely
worry about him leaving office and what is going to happen if he
is no longer running this great city.
RR: It's getting
late, so maybe I better let you get back to work. Are you expecting
a big night?
SM: It's a typical
Thursday night with over 300 dinner reservations. You asked me about
problems and accommodating all of our customers is one of them.
It becomes an incredible balancing act on a daily basis. I don't
want people to be intimidated about coming here. We never even take
a credit card to hold a reservation and there are times when a customer
fails to show. But what can you do? It's certainly not something
that I worry about. Some people think Le Cirque is expensive. Do
you know that there are 40 more restaurants right here in New York
that are more expensive than we are. We want every customer to enjoy
dining here and, of course, we want them to come back. Most of them
do, so we know we are doing something right.
RR: I am sitting
here talking with one of the most successful restaurateurs of the
century whose incredible career spans 50 years, and you are referring
to problems about balancing reservations with tables? I would think
that most restaurants wished they had your problems.
SM: We have been
lucky, but we have also worked very hard!
Dossier
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