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The New Knife & Fork in the New Atlantic City
- by Robert Bickell

When the casinos opened some twenty-five years ago, the one certainty was that Atlantic City was going to change and the shore would never be the same. It is true that a host of independent restaurants were forced to close their doors because they just couldn't compete with the glitz and the power of the casino-dining scene. Only a handful survived, but the truth is that without the casinos they wouldn't have made it anyway. Atlantic City was in deep trouble and for good, bad or indifferent, the casinos saved this once great town and presented a possibility that its greatness could return.

Knife and Fork

One of the survivors was the classic Knife & Fork Inn, established in 1912, and owned and operated by the Latz family since 1927. As it turned out, they survived the casinos but they couldn't survive each other. The Latz family feud resulted in the sale of this historic establishment and the new owner came in the form of another Atlantic City classic - Dock's Oyster House.

Frank Dougherty, the great grandson of the original owner of the legendary Dock's Oyster House has just emerged as one of the major players in the Atlantic City restaurant community. Of course, as the owner of a popular family restaurant that is still going strong after their 1897 opening, a Dougherty has always been a major player. But the acquisition of the world famous Knife & Fork Inn greatly elevates the Dougherty name in Atlantic City. The big challenge is to make it work at their restaurant number two.

It's not easy being the son, grandson or even great grandson in a legendary restaurant family. The founders are perceived to be of the genius variety and the kids are there to ruin it. The kid in this scenario is Frank Dougherty, and it goes without saying that his decision regarding a second major restaurant is a big one. Frank is a young, 39-year-old man with a long and happy life in front of him as the owner of a Dock's Oyster House. With this in mind, he elected to spend millions to buy and completely refurbish another independent restaurant within walking distance of his established safe and successful location.

One thing is for sure - this great grandson is not some wild-eyed kid gambling the family future on an ego-driven plan to become a restaurant big shot. This is an intense, quiet, educated businessman who understands the complexities of the modern restaurant world. This Cornell graduate is a chef and a numbers cruncher at the same time. He knows wine the same way he appreciates history, and when it comes to restaurant history, both of his restaurants are classics in this regard. People appreciate tradition, and people want good food and good service. Frank Dougherty understands precisely what it takes to run a successful restaurant.

He also realizes the powers to be in Atlantic City are intent on attracting a whole new classification of visitors - people not necessarily interested in gambling. They have come to believe that the future of this city is dependent on providing much more than slot machines. Restaurants and retail will play a major role in this transformation, and people like Frank Dougherty see a bright future for businesses located away from the casinos.

The new Knife & Fork Inn is back in business, and this will be incredibly interesting to watch. It is true that the independent restaurants are already becoming a major factor in the "new" Atlantic City, as the casinos have come to realize the benefits of welcoming non-casino run restaurants in their facilities. We will be seeing more big name restaurants and more celebrity chefs open concepts as places like the Borgata, Harrah's and the Tropicana have already done. Of course, these restaurants are all located in the casinos, which will continue to be the major destination for the great majority of visitors.

The big question that must be answered is will the public leave the casinos to dine in non-casino restaurants such as the Knife & Fork Inn? Mr. Dougherty obviously believes he already knows that answer.

The new Knife & Fork has a new state-of-the-arts (open) kitchen and features a prominent bar in an area formerly known as the "porch". The emphasis will be steaks and seafood prepared on the new wood-fired grill and an extensive wine list and a 10,000 bottle wine cellar.

Popular entrees include a Butter poached lobster tail ($42); a grilled King Salmon with basil and mint ($26); Sautéed Flounder with leeks and clams ($26); Pan Roast Halibut with crushed potatoes, tomatoes & almonds ($27); a 16-ounce Sirloin Prime ($32); a 24-ounce Porterhouse ($42); a 14-ounce Kobe beef ($54); a 16-ounce Kobe burger ($28); Pan roasted veal chop with radicchio, white beans and rosemary ($38); Cider cured prime pork chop with roasted apples and onions ($28); and Red Wine Braised Short Ribs (26).

The Knife & Fork Inn
29 South Albany Avenue (Atlantic & Pacific Aves.)
Atlantic City
www.knifeandforkinn.com

Docks Oyster House
2405 Atlantic Avenue
Atlantic City
609-345-0092
www.docksoysterhouse.com




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